FAQ

On average, our trees measure between one and three meters (depending on the species), plus the pot height of roughly 30 cm when they are distributed. Depending on the varieties and the years, sometimes the trees are larger or smaller than expected.

View the Tree Info Sheets to check their average height at maturity.

The roots are what anchor a tree to the ground and stabilize it, while the rootlets absorb water.
It is important to avoid damaging, removing, or choking the tree’s roots. Avoid digging and backfilling soil around an established tree, as the first soil horizons are full of small, lateral roots.
In urban environments, the classification of root systems is only approximate, because the way they evolve depends on the environment (water sources, the shape of the planting pit, strong, prevailing winds, physical obstacles, etc.) and may not follow the typical structure.
As a guide, here are three main types of tree roots:
– taproots: Mainly in conifers;
Consisting of a main root, descending vertically into the soil and some additional, less vigorous lateral roots.
– Shallow roots: Horizontal roots with short vertical roots. These cover an extensive but shallow surface.
– Deep roots: Horizontal, diagonal and vertical roots. These cover an extensive but deeper surface.

Tree roots are often blamed for many urban infrastructure problems, as roots seek out moisture in the ground. However, the soil near a foundation tends to be dry, since it is often sheltered from rain and the foundation itself gives off heat.

Most roots will therefore move away from the foundation or grow parallel to it. They also don’t like concrete (which is too dry and alkaline) and tend to move away from it. Roots therefore won’t infiltrate cracks in the foundation nor create new ones.

As for pipes, some tree roots seeking water may find their way through cracks or holes. A good rule of thumb is not to plant trees within three meters of underground pipes, depending on the species.

In addition, some cities prohibit the planting of certain water-loving trees, such as cottonwoods, large willows and silver maples, or require that they be planted far from pipes.

For more information, visit:

https://arboquebec.com/blog/6/les-racines-darbres-les-problemes-legende-urbaine-ou-la-realite 

https://jardinierparesseux.com/2015/10/28/quand-un-arbre-pousse-trop-pres-dune-maison/

https://espacepourlavie.ca/racines-darbres-et-fondations-dimmeubles

https://www.siaq.org/l-arboriculture/mythes-et-realites/

The growth rate we provide is only an indication. Growth rates are relative, and are mainly used to compare trees with one another. Some plants grow faster or slower depending on the species and the environment in which they are planted. Fast-growing trees get bigger quicker, though they tend to have softer or more flexible wood and a shorter lifespan.

For more information, visit the Hydro-Québec or AFSQ website.

We try to offer a selection of fast-growing trees. Consult the Tree Info Sheets to find out more

Fruit trees are classified into two broad categories: self-fertile and self-sterile.

More information in the Advice section

A self-fertile species can produce fruit by self-fertilization, which means that the tree’s pollen can fertilize flowers on the same tree or of the same variety. These trees can be planted alone and will still produce fruits.

A self-sterile tree CANNOT produce fruit by self-fertilization. The pollen of the tree CANNOT fertilize flowers of the same variety. Therefore, another tree of another variety of the same species and in the same vicinity is required for fruit production. For example, two apple trees of the same variety cannot cross-pollinate.

It should be noted that, even for a self-fertile species, it is better to plant another variety nearby for better fruit production.

The minimum age to yield fruits depends on the fruit tree itself and the variety. In most cases, trees sold as part of A Tree for My Neighborhood are already producing fruit, and many trees have flowers when they are delivered (spring) or fruits (fall).

We recommend removing flowers and fruits for the first two years to help the tree get established. This allows the tree to use less energy on fruit production and focus on developing a deep root system.

More information in the Advice section

To find out which tree is right for your property and the amount of sunlight it gets, refer to the Tree Info Sheets.

Several search criteria, including sun exposure, will help you make the best choice.

In a confined space, it is best to choose a tree with a smaller bearing. More information is available on each of the Tree Info Sheets.

View the Tree Info Sheets to find out which trees are the best fit for your yard.

A Tree for My Neighbourhood doesn’t function like a commercial tree nursery. When you pick up your tree or when it is delivered to you, you cannot choose a specific tree. We distribute trees as people come to pick them up